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» Auction1 Trad Gang.com » Main Forums » The Bowyer's Bench » Selfbow Caul

   
Author Topic: Selfbow Caul
bigcountry
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I think I am going to make me a Caul to put in reflex into staves. And fix side to side bends on occasion.

Would 3" of reflex be too much? Figured after you got a bow heated up and clamped to it, it might only hold 1.5-2" depending on how much deflex it had before and how much heat, etc?

Posts: 1328 | From: Westminster, MD | Registered: Mar 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ryan Yoon
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I've been asking myself the exact same question.
Posts: 55 | From: Swartz Creek, MI | Registered: Jul 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
DCM
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Mine puts about 2" over 64" or so, more if the stave is longer. It has worked well for me, having done perhaps a hundred projects over the years. You can always add reflex by putting spacers between the stave and caul. Less reflex is more tricky. I like for the bend to be fairly progressive, that is modest near the handle and more pronounced the farther out the limb. A good caul is time and money well spent imho. I'd be lost without mine. Most staves won't retain as much reflex as you caul might put, rather they tend to spring back a little. So I'd say 3" isn't excessive at all.
Posts: 1316 | From: Memphis, Tn | Registered: Mar 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
John Scifres
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Credit goes to Will Steffen for giving me this design/technique. I believe it was Gary Davis that taught him in the first place but don't quote me on that.

To make a decent caul for about every situation, get a 2x6x72" board. Dimensional framing pine is OK. Hardwood is better.

Square the ends. Divide the ends into 6 equal segments. Number them from top to bottom, 0 for the bottom, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. Mark the top of the board every 6". Number them from left to right, 0 for the left edge, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.

Draw a line from the 1 on the end, to the 1 on the top. From the 2 to the 2 and so on.

You will end up with something like the middle piece here. Smooth out the line at the bottom and then cut it out. Repeat for the other side.

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This makes a nice progressively steeper reflex that will ends up with flat to slightly deflexed mid limbs and slightly flipped tips after your done tillering. If you make a lot of bows that are shoreter than 66", you can make it shorter or do like I did and make a length adjustable caul. Use your imagination. That's what's so fun about this thing.

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Take a kid hunting!

TGMM Family of the Bow

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Shaun
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Gary Davis has an article about his caul layout in the next issue of TradArchers World mag (sponsor) that will be out in Feb.

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www.taurusbows.com

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Walt Francis
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I have used the same layout for my culls as John since 97 with great results. I made my first couple with solid wood and they warped after a dozen or so bows, now I use LVL without any problems. Also, I my cull to be adjustable from 48" to 72" so I don't need several different culls taking up room in my shop/garage. Here I a picture of my cull with the inserts setting on top (the inserts drop in to place when the form is lengthened).

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The broadhead used, regardless of how sharp, is nowhere as important as being able to place it in the correct spot.

Walt Francis

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bigcountry
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Holy cow Walt, thats the cadillac of cauls
Posts: 1328 | From: Westminster, MD | Registered: Mar 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
bigcountry
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John, I guess one could also use 2X4 for something less aggressive?
Posts: 1328 | From: Westminster, MD | Registered: Mar 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
skeaterbait
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Mine is basically the same thing as John but has a smoother arc through the entire limb but still progressive.

I used a 2x6 to make it.

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Sometimes I porpoise, sometimes I fishtail. Maybe I should get back in the boat.

Posts: 301 | From: Lawson, MO | Registered: Jun 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
RB
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Yep, over 6", down 1/2" (or over 3" and down 1/4"). 3" of reflex won't last very long....

Note: If you making stiff handle bows, allow for length of handle + fades (say 7-8") by keeping the top center of the 2x6 dead flat...then start your increments downward on the ends.

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bigcountry
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Thanks Skeeter, that looks a lot less agressive to me.
Posts: 1328 | From: Westminster, MD | Registered: Mar 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
dutchwarbow
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I prefer scifres caul,

nice low-string angle profile [Big Grin]

Nick

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in the old days religion had it's use to keep nations together. Today, religion tears nations apart.

Nick

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skeaterbait
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quote:
Originally posted by dutchwarbow:
I prefer scifres caul,

nice low-string angle profile [Big Grin]

Nick

That's why we have different colored cars. [thumbsup]

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Sometimes I porpoise, sometimes I fishtail. Maybe I should get back in the boat.

Posts: 301 | From: Lawson, MO | Registered: Jun 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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